World’s longest-standing Michelin-starred restaurant loses a star

Georges Blanc received its first Michelin star in 1929. (Andia / Universal Images Group via Getty Images via CNN Newsource)

A French restaurant that has held a Michelin star for longer than any other establishment in the world has lost one of its stars.

Georges Blanc, in the eastern French commune of Vonnas, was first awarded a star almost a century ago and has boasted three stars continuously since 1981, a spokeswoman for the 153-year-old establishment told CNN.

The Michelin Guide confirmed the loss of Georges Blanc’s third star to CNN on Friday.

“Our evaluation criteria have been the same for 125 years. They are focused solely on the dish,” a Michelin spokeswoman said. “It’s about five key criteria: the quality of the ingredients, the cooking technique, the harmony of flavours, the personality of the chef as expressed in their menu, and the consistency and regularity between different inspector visits.”

“Michelin inspectors visit the restaurant several times a year, with different inspectors visiting each time. The process is collegial—it’s not a decision made by a single inspector; it’s a decision made after multiple visits with different inspectors,” she added.

Reacting to the news, 82-year-old chef Georges Blanc told French news agency AFP: “We didn’t expect it. One star will be missing, fading away, so we will manage with two stars. It’s not an issue.”

CNN has reached out to Blanc for further comment.

The restaurant, founded in 1872 with the name “La Mère Blanc,” earned its first Michelin star in 1929 — only three years after the Michelin Guide started awarding stars to fine dining establishments.

It was awarded to Blanc’s grandmother, Élisa, who also accepted the second star in 1931, the restaurant’s spokeswoman told CNN.

Three generations of women were chefs at the family restaurant before Blanc joined his mom in the kitchen. He took the helm in 1968 at age 25 and later went on to earn the restaurant its third star, according to the website of Relais & Châteaux, the company that owns it.

Georges Blanc is open for just one hour and 15 minutes for dinner on Thursday and for lunch and dinner from Friday to Sunday, according to its site. Diners choose their meals in advance, and an à la carte menu competes with two six- and seven-course tasting menus.

Diners can feast on a creative take on Bresse chicken, lobster and local-style crepes—to be paired with wine from a cellar of 140,000 bottles, according to the restaurant.

The Michelin Guide, which will hold a ceremony to mark this year’s France selection on March 31, has at times faced a backlash over its decision to award or take stars away from popular chefs.

In January, French chef Marc Veyrat banned Michelin inspectors from his new restaurant, Le Restaurant Marc Veyrat, five years after taking the guide to court — and losing the case— over an unfavourable review of his cheese soufflé.

However, anonymous Michelin inspectors could still turn up to assess the restaurant, as South Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon found out in 2019, when he sued the guide for awarding his restaurant a star after he asked it not to.

Article written by Amarachi Orie and Lisa Klaassen, CNN